PALM DESERT. You have to see this place to fully appreciate it. The airy, two-story restaurant features a winding metal, glass, and cherry staircase, along with concrete floors, black carpets, animal skin prints, and striking artwork. Its French menu features tempting creations like Chilean sea bass and grilled spicy shrimp with chayote squash slaw and sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. An extensive wine cellar offers the finest French vintages. Closed summers.

DOWNTOWN. Star power is on call at this restaurant ­ not only was it a hangout for Cary Grant, but it's under the masterful tutelage of celebrity chef Andrew Manion Copley, and it attracts personalities like Anderson Cooper. Diners can't get enough of the romantic, open-air patio, and the sublime cuisine, informed by Copley's tenure at restaurants across the globe, includes Muscovy duck breast, seared Scottish salmon, lobster pot pie, and tandoori chicken breast. A broad wine list arranged by type promises an appropriate accompaniment. Terrific service is a pleasant perk. Closed during the month of August.

This inn restaurant has been touted as one of the town's best by a number of upscale publications. The elegant place features continental cuisine beyond compare and a gleaming antique oak and mahogany bar known as Casablanca's. Entree selections include fresh filet of sole piccata, filet mignon en croute (stuffed with oysters and dressed with herb tomato sauce), and the signature veal Ingleside with mousseline sauce and fettuccine. Melvyn's also boasts two world-class wine cellars with premium vintages from around the world. The ultimate in fine dining, it's an excellent place to spot celebrities ­ past guests have included Bob Hope, John Travolta, and Gerald Ford.

PALM SPRINGS. Boldly patterned textiles and carpeting, reflective ceilings, expressive artwork, and a tension between light and dark hues add a certain quirky elegance to this estimable hotel restaurant. Updated bistro fare is the culinary signature, as evidenced by duck confit with truffled potatoes, osso bucco with saffron risotto, beef short ribs, and pistachio-crusted rack of lamb. Choose your favorite main course ­ following a starter of fresh oysters ­ and finish up with a pear and almond tart and a splash of dessert wine. Closed July and August.

RANCHO MIRAGE. A much-loved standard for many years, Shame on the Moon offers upscale dining without off-the-chart prices. Folks return again and again for the excellent menu, which includes a spicy penne pasta with andouille and prawns, sauteed calf's liver with bourbon glaze, grilled filet mignon with blue cheese, and seared ahi with wasabi mashed potatoes. A good selection of West Coast wines is available, along with a full bar. Always busy.